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Heating Oil Basics → Running Out of Oil
Quick steps: Check if you're truly empty → Call for emergency delivery → Add 5-10 gallons of diesel as a temporary fix → Bleed the fuel line → Restart the burner.
If your heating oil tank just ran dry, don't panic. Your house won't freeze immediately, and there are steps you can take right now — even before a delivery truck arrives.
Here's what to do, in order.
Before assuming the tank is dry, check a few things:
If you're truly empty — dry stick, burner won't fire — move to the next step.
Most heating oil companies offer emergency or same-day delivery, but expect to pay a premium — often $50-150 more than a regular delivery, plus a higher per-gallon price.
Tips for calling:
While you wait for delivery, move to the next step — you can get heat running in under an hour.
This is the fastest way to get heat back. #2 diesel fuel is essentially the same product as #2 heating oil. The main difference is that road diesel has taxes and a different dye. It is safe to use in your oil burner.
Here's how:
Any of the three will keep your burner running in a pinch. Here's how they stack up:
For a day or two, any of them is safe. For the long haul, go back to the #2 heating oil your burner is set up for — kerosene in particular has lower lubricity and can wear the fuel pump over months of steady use.
Never put gasoline in an oil tank. Gasoline ignites at a far lower temperature than heating oil and can flash or explode in an oil burner — it's the one fuel that's genuinely dangerous here. Steer clear of used motor oil and waste oil too; they aren't made for a residential burner.
Rough guide — how long will it last?
Actual usage varies by temperature, home size, and insulation. A 5-gallon can of diesel costs roughly $20-25 — far cheaper than an emergency delivery surcharge.
This is a temporary fix, not a long-term solution. Schedule a proper delivery as soon as possible.
When your tank runs completely dry, air gets into the fuel line. Even after adding oil or diesel, your burner may not start because it's trying to pump air instead of fuel. You need to bleed the line.
Before you start: If you are uncomfortable working around the burner, smell oil strongly, or see oil pooling on the floor — stop and call a professional. Bleeding the line is safe and straightforward for many homeowners, but it is not required. A technician can do this for you.
What you'll need:
Steps:
If it doesn't fire after the first attempt, wait 60 seconds and try again. It may take 2-3 bleeds to fully purge the air.
Warning: Only press the reset button 2-3 times maximum. Pressing it repeatedly can flood the combustion chamber with unburned oil, which is a safety hazard and will require a technician to clean up.
If you've added fuel and bled the line but the burner still won't fire:
If none of that works, call a heating technician. Running out of oil can sometimes cause sludge from the bottom of the tank to clog the fuel filter or nozzle, which requires professional service.
While you wait, see What to Do When You Lose Heat in Winter for tips on keeping your house warm and protecting your pipes.
Running out of oil is stressful, expensive, and can damage your heating system over time. Here's how to avoid it:
Running out once is understandable. Running out twice is preventable.
Yes. #2 diesel fuel is essentially the same product as #2 heating oil and is safe to use as a temporary substitute. Pour 5-10 gallons of diesel into your oil tank fill pipe to get your burner running while you wait for a proper delivery. Never use gasoline — it is extremely dangerous in an oil burner.
Yes — it's the closest match there is. Off-road (red-dyed) diesel and #2 heating oil are both red-dyed #2 distillate, chemically about as close as two fuels get. The only catch is availability, since dyed diesel is usually sold at farm and fleet pumps rather than regular gas stations.
Yes, in most residential oil burners. K-1 kerosene is a lighter distillate that burns clean and won't gel in extreme cold, which makes it a good emergency choice for outdoor tanks in a deep freeze. It carries slightly less heat per gallon than #2 oil and isn't ideal for months of continuous use because of its lower lubricity, but for a day or two it's perfectly safe.
No — not for a short-term fill. Both burn cleanly in an oil furnace. The real risk after running dry isn't the substitute fuel; it's the air pulled into the fuel line (which you bleed out) and sludge stirred up from the bottom of the tank, which can clog the filter or nozzle. Only avoid running kerosene for the long term, since its lower lubricity can wear the fuel pump over time.
Locate the bleeder valve (a small hex nut on the fuel pump). Place a container underneath, loosen the valve a quarter turn, then press the burner reset button. Air will hiss out, followed by sputtering, then a steady stream of oil. Once you see solid, bubble-free oil flow, tighten the valve. The burner should fire within seconds. Only press the reset button 2-3 times maximum.
Emergency deliveries typically cost $50-150 more than regular deliveries, plus a higher per-gallon price. After-hours and weekend deliveries cost even more. Call your regular supplier first — they may waive the emergency fee for existing customers.
The most common cause is air in the fuel line. When a tank runs completely dry, air enters the line and the fuel pump can't draw oil. You need to bleed the line to purge the air. If bleeding doesn't work, sludge from the bottom of the tank may have clogged the fuel filter or nozzle, which requires a technician.
Roughly 12-24 hours for a typical home, depending on outdoor temperature, home size, and insulation. Ten gallons will last approximately 1-2 days. This is a temporary fix to keep your heat running while you arrange a proper oil delivery.